The Surfer Stoke Project


If you think about how a person moves through the world, it’s more than “amazing.”  You took your first step once.  First!  On chubby little baby legs.  There isn’t a word for that.  And I think we forget how good a human life can be.

I think our lives branch out in vast and beautiful ways.  Like, if you dropped a gallon of milk to the floor and watched it spread.  I think that’s how people are.

I think there are words I said to someone once that they remember from time to time, though I don’t remember saying them.  Someone, somewhere, remembers how you opened the door for them at the department store.  Someone remembers grading your papers.  Seeing you on the platform in a train station.

We might go from being madly in love with someone to never wanting to see them again, but that doesn’t change the…

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